Signature dishes of New York in Albany
Five upstate New York classics and the six places to eat them properly in Albany.
Beef on weck sandwich with jus and horseradish
Beef on weck
A rare-roast beef sandwich on a salt-and-caraway kummelweck roll, dipped in jus with horseradish, is Western New York's contribution. In Albany, McGeary's on Clinton Square does a $16 version with proper au jus and enough horseradish to hurt. The Hollow on North Pearl also runs a decent one at $15. Order it rare unless you don’t trust the kitchen.
Chicken riggies and utica greens
Central New York cuisine from Utica. Chicken riggies is rigatoni with chicken, cherry peppers, and a cream-tomato sauce; Utica greens are escarole with breadcrumbs, cheese, and hot cherry peppers baked hard. Bettie's Cafe on Madison Avenue does both at around $18 to $22. It is the honest article and portions are enormous.
Michigan hot dogs and fish fry
The North Country's Michigan is a hot dog with a specific meat sauce, mustard, and onions; not chili. Gus's Hot Dogs on Broadway serves them at $4 each. For fish fry (a Friday tradition), Ted's Fish Fry on Wolf Road does $8 haddock plates, and Off Shore Pier on Madison also runs a Friday special around $14.
Pastrami and rye
Not just a NYC thing; the Capital District does it well. Roll’n Rye on Wolf Road (yes, a strip mall) turns out a $14 pastrami on rye that holds its own against most Manhattan delis. Get it with mustard, not mayo, and a Dr. Brown's cream soda for the full effect.
Frequently asked questions
What people ask before they set off on this one.
It depends on the region. Buffalo wings, beef on weck, chicken riggies, and NYC deli sandwiches are all in the running. Albany's food identity is the mix of all of them.
McGeary's on Clinton Square. $16, proper jus, and they know to serve the beef rare unless you ask otherwise.
Yes when done right. Bettie's Cafe on Madison is the version we send visitors to. Cream, tomato, cherry peppers, and it should have a slow heat, not a punchy one.
Yes for the original. Off Shore Pier on Madison is a closer walkable alternative if you are staying in Center Square.
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